Re: 1.6 TDI in 1992 Jetta - Vehicles - Vehicles

quote:
Originally posted by ramsey.199
I am considering purchasing this car and would like to know if it would be a good choice for use with biofuels and which version would be best? (ie. refining B100, converting the car for WVO or useing the DSE product) Forgive any poor questions as I am nwe to this.

It is not a TDI, (post'95)unless transplanted - ez to tell, if it goes really fast, little smoke and is pretty quiet it is a TDI, If you go deaf riding at 60 mph, and it took 2 miles to get up to that speed it is an IDI, tho A2's are a big step over Rabbits (mini Drum) safety and noise, not nearly as much fun, (like a go-cart) to drive It could be an IDI TD (eco-diesel), not great, very low ratio tranny, whimpy (small, fast spooling) turbo, no boost enrichment on pump (all this can be easily fixed(not cheaply ~$600 w' used parts) ); unless you have a few TD vw's laying around [:D] or It could be an IDI NA (non turbo) ez to tell by air cleaner box location. if its behind Valve Cover, its an NA, besides it won't have a turbo...(trace exhaust or intake...) Even the '92 NA's have a pretty stupid LR tranny (can replace for ~$150 used) and the gas racers will kill for a diesel tranny (or trade you a few gas trannies, don't get a close ratio from GTI or GLI, get a tranny code AGS or ASF or ACH) so... NA's are slow, but dependable and good longevity (300k-500k) TD's seem to go south between 250 - 300k (probably sooner on ECO since engine has gone much farther by then...higher RPM) TD's are most important if you live above 5000ft, or want to have some acceleration, but more (expensive) things to break. Do yourself a favor and forget the WVO kit, just brew your own BD. (check out the 'appleseed processor) Everyone I know that has tried WVO in a VW has had a bunch of trouble, but you might not mind trouble. (keep some extra injection pumps on hand...) I will use WVO in a stationary application (genset), but... not on a road rig, and I usually like a challenge, but hate being stranded or pushing, and do most my driving at night, since I am not keen on traffic and stop lights, and other drivers. When buying a diesel, ALWAYS ask to start it cold, (like the first time on a cold day) to verify compression. or have it tested. for VW's ALWAYS check for oil or bubbles in water tank (radiator) head gasket common problem, not cheap or ez to fix ~$100 in parts and facing head (don't let just any shop do this, as the 'prechambers' are VERY hard, and an 'interrupted' cut between them and aluminum head could spell future head leaks They must use Ceramic cutter inserts to do a good job, not Carbide, and certainly not HSS. Timing Belt is of utmost importance, as these are interference engines, and when belt breaks, so does your cam and head, and vales. Go camp at tech section of VWdieselparts.com http://www.vwdieselparts.com/ if you buy an IDI or on the forum at GTD (euro spec TD GTI) http://www.vwdiesel.net/phpBB/index.php VW diesels are forever (17(+3) of those... www.brushmunchers.com

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